Knob and tube was the standard electrical system that was used from 1880 to 1930.  Ceramic knobs were secured into wall studs or floor joists – these knobs were used as anchors for the wiring. The wiring was then fed through ceramic tubes that were cut into wall studs and flooring. In was by running the wires through these tubes, electricians could avoid direct contact between the wires and the wood.

Why is knob and tube wiring no longer used?

Knob and tube wiring is no longer an acceptable practice for a few reasons. Firstly the installation required the wires to be open to dissipate heat from conductivity.  Secondly it was a very costly method of installation as the price of electricians increased over the years.  Modern materials/wiring practices over the years would become much easier and safety.

Is knob and tube wiring dangerous?

This method of wiring was seen to be safe at the time of installation and used for many years.  Technically, it could still be used in modern application and be functional, but would not be practical or cost efficient for current requirements.

Knob and tube wiring isn’t dangerous by itself, but if you have knob and tube in your home, there’s definitely a risk. Knob and tube wiring is dangerous because it’s old – that means a number of safety precautions that exist in modern systems won’t be present. Old knob and tube wiring wasn’t grounded and didn’t use multi-switching, which can lead to serious potential fire and shock hazards.

Modern home buyers often discover existing Knob & Tube systems will be insufficient for today’s levels of power consumption. These outdated wiring techniques became susceptible to overloading by homeowners.  This overloading of the electrical circuits created a higher risk of fire hazards.

Knob-and-tube wiring may also be damaged by building renovations. Its cloth and rubber insulation can dry out and turn brittle. It may also be damaged by pests and careless activities such as hanging objects from wiring running in accessible areas like basements or attics. Having a proper home inspection will help identify the potential presence of knob and tube wiring.

What to do if you think you have Knob & Tube Wiring? Insurance Implications?

You must disclose the presence of knob and tube wiring to your insurance companies.  Sometimes you will have to pay an additional premium for the presence of active knob and tube.  As existing knob & tube wiring gets older, insurance companies may deny coverage due to a perception of increased risk. Home inspections by qualified companies like Inspection Services Group Inc will help mitigate risk.

Internachi Suggestions:

• Have the system evaluated by a qualified electrician or the Electrical Safety Authority. Only an expert can confirm that the system was installed and modified correctly.
• Do not run an excessive amount of appliances in the home, as this can cause a fire.
• Replace all outlets with ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets. These are 3-prong outlets with a built-in reset button.
• Where the wiring is brittle or cracked, it should be replaced. Proper maintenance is crucial.
• K&T wiring should not be used in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms or outdoors. Wiring must be grounded in order to be used safely in these locations.
• Rewiring a house can take weeks and cost thousands of dollars, but unsafe wiring can cause fires, complicate estate transactions, and make insurers skittish.
• Homeowners should carefully consider their options before deciding whether to rewire their house.
• The homeowner or an electrician should carefully remove any insulation that is found surrounding k&t wires.
• Prospective home buyers should get an estimate of the cost of replacing k&t wiring. They can use this amount to negotiate a cheaper price for the house.
• Modern home buyers often find that existing K&T systems lack the capacity for today’s levels of power use. First-generation wiring systems became susceptible to abuse by homeowners who would replace blown fuses with fuses rated for higher current. This overfusing of the circuits subjects wiring to higher levels of current and risks heat damage or fire. 
• Knob-and-tube wiring may also be damaged by building renovations. Its cloth and rubber insulation can dry out and turn brittle. It may also be damaged by pests and careless activities such as hanging objects from wiring running in accessible areas like basements or attics. 
• Currently, the National Electrical Code forbids the use of loose, blown-in, or expanding foam insulation over K&T wiring. This is because K&T is designed to let heat dissipate to the surrounding air. As a result, energy efficiency upgrades that involve insulating previously uninsulated walls usually also require replacement of the wiring in affected homes. 
• As existing K&T wiring gets older, insurance companies may deny coverage due to a perception of increased risk. Several companies will not write new homeowners policies at all unless all K&T wiring is replaced, or an electrician certifies that the wiring is in good condition. Also, many institutional lenders are unwilling to finance a home with the relatively low-capacity service typical of K&T wiring, unless the electrical service is upgraded.  Partial upgrades, where low demand lighting circuits are left intact, may be acceptable to some insurers. 

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In the 1970s, stucco ceilings, also known as popcorn ceilings or acoustic ceilings, were a popular choice for many homes and commercial spaces. This textured ceiling finish was not only fashionable but also provided acoustic benefits by reducing noise levels. However, what was once a trendy design element now poses a potential health hazard. Many stucco ceilings from that era contain asbestos, a harmful mineral fiber that can lead to serious health issues if released into the air. In this blog, we will explore the importance of testing for asbestos in 1970s stucco ceilings and discuss safe removal options.

Understanding Asbestos

Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral that was commonly used in construction materials until its harmful effects became widely known. The mineral’s fibrous nature makes it resistant to heat, fire, and chemicals, which made it a popular choice in various building applications. However, prolonged exposure to asbestos fibers can lead to severe health conditions, including lung cancer, asbestosis, and mesothelioma.

The risk in 1970s stucco ceilings

Stucco ceilings installed during the 1970s are known to contain asbestos. The textured appearance of these ceilings was achieved by mixing asbestos fibers with the stucco material. When the ceiling remains undisturbed, the asbestos fibers are typically contained within the stucco matrix. However, over time, the ceiling may deteriorate or get damaged, releasing these dangerous fibers into the air where they can be inhaled.

The importance of Testing

If your home or property was built during the 1970s and features a stucco ceiling, it is crucial to determine whether it contains asbestos. Testing the ceiling for asbestos is the only way to know for sure. Professional asbestos inspectors can collect samples and send them to certified laboratories for analysis. They will perform a thorough examination, identifying the presence and concentration of asbestos fibers in the stucco ceiling.

Safe asbestos removal

 If the test confirms the presence of asbestos in your stucco ceiling, it is highly recommended to proceed with safe removal. While it is technically possible for homeowners to remove asbestos-containing materials themselves, it is a complex and hazardous process that should be left to professionals. Certified asbestos abatement contractors have the necessary expertise, equipment, and safety protocols to ensure the safe removal and disposal of asbestos materials. Type 2 and type 3 Abatement is regulated by law in the Province of Ontario.

The process of asbestos removal typically involves the following steps:

1. Containment: The work area is carefully sealed off to prevent the spread of asbestos fibers to other parts of the property.
2. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Workers wear appropriate PPE, including respirators, disposable coveralls, and gloves, to protect themselves from exposure.
3. Wetting: The stucco ceiling is thoroughly wetted to minimize the release of asbestos fibers during removal.
4. Careful Removal: The stucco ceiling is carefully scraped off or removed in sections, minimizing dust generation.
5. Cleanup: The work area is meticulously cleaned using specialized vacuum cleaners designed to capture asbestos fibers.
6. Disposal: All asbestos-containing materials are properly sealed and disposed of at authorized waste disposal facilities.

Conclusion

If your property features a stucco ceiling installed during the 1970s, it is crucial to have it tested for asbestos. The health risks associated with asbestos exposure make it imperative to approach the situation with caution. If asbestos is detected, hiring a professional asbestos abatement contractor is highly recommended for safe removal. By taking the necessary steps, you can ensure the protection of yourself, your loved ones, and anyone else who occupies the space, creating a safer living or working environment for all.

FAQs

1.  When did Asbestos stop being used in construction?  Asbestos was used extensively in residential construction until the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. It was used in commercial construction until the late 1990’s at which time its use was regulated by the government.

2.  I am only installing pot lights on a stucco ceiling. Do I still need to test for asbestos? To install pot lights, holes have to be drilled on the ceiling therefore the stucco gets disturbed and becomes airborne. Testing is highly recommended.

3.  Can any contractor remove asbestos material? No, asbestos abatement requires training and certification. Specific protocols have to be followed during the abatement.

4.  Can I throw away asbestos-containing material in the garbage? No, asbestos-containing material can only be disposed at a specific government run dump site.

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When was aluminum installed in residential homes?

Aluminum wiring was used throughout the 1970s due to the increasingly high costs of copper. However, after a decade of use in residential properties, some concerns began to rise due to house fires. It was at that time that steps were implemented to ensure that installations were completed safely.

What were the problems with aluminum?

1. Aluminum wiring was not as conductive as copper and would have to be installed as a larger gauge of wiring. Wires would expand and contract when heated up and had the potential to come loose from the terminals.  In some cases, the wiring would overheat and start fires, therefore, causing damage to homes.
2. Older aluminum wiring would become brittle and break making it difficult for electricians to work with.
3. Oxidation became an issue; wiring that was exposed to moisture would take on a white color and lose its conductivity.
4. Connections at outlets and in the panels would become increasingly dangerous over time.  This was often from poor electrical work or incorrectly rated equipment. 
5. Aluminum and copper cannot be connected together without using special connectors.

Aluminum & insurance

Insurance Policies were changed over time to reflect aluminum wiring in homes as a potential fire hazard.  In Ontario, a qualified and approved Electrical Contractor should always review the home’s electrical system and provide the homeowner with a Certificate of Acceptance.  We strongly advise keeping a copy of this certificate by your panel for future inspections, along with a copy for your records. Many insurance companies require an updated Certificate for renewal purposes.

For more information click here.

How do you know if you have aluminum wiring in your home?

One of the easiest ways to verify what type of wiring is present is to look at the sheathing or wiring casing. It will have either “aluminum” or “al” written on it. If nothing is visible then you have to find a connection in a junction box or in the panel. Additionally, aluminum wiring has a distinct sliver/grey colour, but be sure not to confuse this with older tinned copper. That is why it is important to determine the age of the home. If it was built in the late 1960s or 1970s then chances are it will be aluminum.

What is the solution?

The most expensive and impractical correction is to rewire the home with copper wiring. This is not a requirement for safety but sometimes is the case for alarmed home buyers. The more common solution is to perform a procedure called “pig tailing,” which involves using AL-CU-rated marrets at respective receptacles and light fixtures. This type of repair can cost $100 per outlet for repairs. The wiring should also have an anti-oxidation paste to prevent corrosion of the wires. By utilizing these safe practices, you can ensure your wiring is safe. Do not attempt to do this procedure on your own, instead, always talk to a licensed electrical contractor about aluminum wiring installations.

Is it safe to buy a home with aluminum?

The answer to this is simple: if your home has been inspected by a qualified electrical contractor and all the safety protocols have been followed, then your home is safe. The electrical authority in Ontario, Canada says, “Aluminum wiring itself is safe and if proper connections and terminations are made without damaging the wire and using approved materials installed in accordance with the Ontario electrical safety code and the manufacturer’s instructions, there should be no problems with the aluminum wiring installation.”

FAQs

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An energy-efficient home would be categorized as a home that uses less energy or that uses energy responsibly. Building codes have changed in the last two decades in order to make newly constructed homes more energy efficient. Buying an energy-efficient home or upgrades to an existing home will enhance comfort and help save on utility bills. Making these conscious choices will also help reduce our carbon footprint and thus protect our environment.

Impact on the Environment

14% of homes in Canada are creating greenhouse gas emissions. These types of emissions in the atmosphere are causing a “greenhouse effect”. This damaging impact on the environment is contributing to climate change and rising temperatures. By purchasing an energy-efficient home or updating your home, you can drastically reduce the impact of greenhouse emissions while improving comfort and saving money.

What makes a home efficient?

Think of your home and what it takes to run it. You need fuel to heat the home and electricity to power the home. You need appliances to keep your environment cool and your food fresh. All of these features come at a cost to the homeowner. And since we spend a lot of time indoors it is important to have these features optimized to save money and provide a comfortable living environment. Energy-efficient homes can also be key features when selling your home!

Here are some key features of an energy-efficient home:

• Well-insulated airtight construction
• High-Efficiency Equipment (Furnace, Water Heater, AC)
• High-Performance Energy Star Appliances
• LED Lighting
• Energy-efficient Windows

What are the benefits?

• Decreases impact on the environment
• Enhanced comfort (Cool in the summer and warm in the winter)
• Increases the value of the home for resale
• Reduces energy costs

Homes will now come with an EnerGuide score so you can determine how efficient the home is. A 0 rating would indicate that the home is of low efficiency (air leaks, lack of insulation) and a 100 score would indicate an air-tight and well-insulated home.

Here are some tips for improving your homes energy score:

• Replace older windows with energy-efficient windows
• Install water-saving toilets, faucet aerators and shower heads
• Install high-efficiency heating, cooling and water heating equipment.  
• Consider upgrading your water heater to a tankless water-on-demand type.
• Replace halogen with LED lighting.
• Updated the home’s insulation levels to meet current building codes.
• Replace appliances with Energy Star appliances.
• Insulate the home’s piping where feasible.
• Seal air leaks around windows/doors
• Install a programmable thermostat
• Set equipment/exterior light fixtures etc. on timers to reduce the frequency of use

There are many grants available currently for homeowners that provide rebates or other incentives to make energy-related updates to their homes. For more information, you can look at the Natural Resources Canada website and your local utility company website. Some grants require an energy audit to be done prior to the updates.

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How Does The Furnace Work?

Most of us will have a forced air system. This type of system recirculates air by using unheated air from the return registers which is then brought back to the house through separate ducts. The unconditioned air is heated using burners and a heat exchanger, and the blower fan beneath the unit will distribute the warm air throughout the home using the distribution ducts in the walls/floor. Each room will have its own vent where the hot air will circulate the heat in the home.

Why Are Some Rooms Warmer Than Others?

Depending on the age or size of the furnace, how well the home is insulated, the condition of the furnace, and the distance from the unit, you may notice that some areas of the home are colder than others. Before you panic, try these tips:

1. Check to see if the air filter is dirty. This can impact the units’ efficiency.
2. In rooms that appear to be hotter than others, try adjusting the vents to limit airflow in that room. Make adjustments in rooms that are less occupied to push air into colder rooms. Sometimes you will find that vents are closed where they should be open. Closing registers completely is not recommended because the air will then escape under the floors and into the walls through gaps in the duct system.
3. Around the furnace you will sometimes see what is referred to as a damper. You can adjust the damper with the lever to allow better airflow in some areas of the home.
4. Do a walkthrough of each room; remove covers and check to make sure they are connected and unobstructed.  Placing furniture such as beds and dressers over registers will block the airflow.
5. If your heating unit is older or had some knocks and pings then it just may need replacement.

General Maintenance

Like most of the mechanical systems in your home, some degree of maintenance is recommended. Here are some maintenance tips to prolong the life of your HVAC System.

1. Change your filter regularly. Use a higher MERV filter to promote better air quality in the home. If you are concerned about allergens then have a HEPA air cleaner installed with your furnace.
2. Vacuum out your return air ducts.
3. Have your ducts cleaned annually or at least every 2 years.
4. Clean out your condensate lines or pump to prevent clogging or backflow.
5.  Change your Humidifier filter prior to each heating season.
6. Depending on the age of your furnace it is recommended to have it serviced every 1-2 Years by a licensed HVAC technician.
7. Do a visual inspection. Open the cover; do you see any rust or moisture? If so then call a licensed HVAC technician for further evaluation.
8. When your furnace is running do you notice any leaks around the ductwork? Tape seams and joints with aluminum tape. This will enhance your units’ performance.

Most furnaces being installed are going to be high efficiency. This means that they will operate at over 90% efficiency. Some people will still have a mid-efficiency unit in use. These units typically operated at about 78%-82% efficiency.  Lower efficiency equates to higher fuel consumption. Consider updating to high efficiency whenever possible.

If you are wondering the age of your system you can always reference the serial number. For most systems, you will find that it can be identified in the first or second two digits. Thus, meaning if it reads “4519078” it would be manufactured in 2019. This is not always the case but true for a lot of the major manufacturers.

More information can also be obtained online. Another way to determine the age of the furnace is to look at the venting. White (PVC) venting is an indication of a newer high efficiency unit. They started using this type of venting around 2006. Black (ABS) would indicate earlier than 2006 and metal usually is telling you it’s an older mid efficiency unit.

A well maintained furnace can last 20-25 years. Make sure to take good care of your heating system to ensure your home is properly heated during the winter months!

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Sump pumps are installed in homes as part of a system that removes excess water from the foundation of the house. Sump pumps will typically be installed during the construction of a home but in some cases are installed after a house has had flooding or water penetration issues. 

During the construction of a house, a peripheral drainage system known as a ‘weeping tile’ of ‘French Drain’ is installed at the base of the foundation. This will allow excess water to be removed from the base of the foundation and then directed to the sump pump. The sump pump will then remove this water and shed it to the exterior of the house, as far as possible to prevent re-entry.

Sometimes the peripheral drainage system is installed inside the house. This is done with some older homes, where it is not possible to excavate at the exterior. This method comes with advantages and disadvantages and should only be done by professionals who use specific systems. Done wrong, an interior peripheral drainage system may create structural issues with the foundation.

Typical Sump Pump Installation

Sump pump installation should always be done by a professional plumbing contractor, but maintenance can be done by the homeowner. The typical sump pump is submerged in a plastic pit, runs on electricity and has to be plugged into a dedicated outlet near the pump. A backflow device must always be installed on the discharge pipe to prevent the backflow of water. The sump pump discharge pipe is not allowed to drain into the sanitary drains of the house. In new subdivisions, the sump pump discharge is directed to the storm sewers of the road underground. If that is not the case at your home, then direct the discharge water as far away as possible.

The sump pump pit must always remain closed to prevent debris from falling inside and also prevent evaporation of moisture to the interior of the house. The current building code requires a sealed sump pump pit.

Sump Pump Maintenance

It is very typical for sand or clay to flow with the water and this will sit on the bottom of the pit. Over time if this is not removed, it will clog the sump pump and make it inoperable. Cleaning of the sump pump pit can be done by removing debris by hand and then using a hose to dissolve the sand or clay and let the pump shed it out with normal operation.

The sump pump should be tested regularly to ensure that it is operational. This is done by raising the floating switch and simulating the filling of the pit. Sump pump types have an internal floating switch, so in this case, the pit has to be filled with water and let to run as it would under normal operating conditions.

There are many different types of pumps that also vary in size and capacity. We tend to see a lot of pedestal-type pumps fail and I always recommend using a submerged pump with a vertical floater. 

The more maintenance is done, the longest the life of the sump pump. A typical good quality sump pump costs between $150 and $200 plus installation by a plumbing contractor.

It is important to know what condition your drainage system and sump pump is in, which is why choosing the right home inspector is crucial.

FAQs

1. Is the absence of a sump pump a bad thing? No, it is not. In new construction, a sump pump will only be installed if the peripheral drainage system is higher than the storm sewers of the road. 
2. Should the sump pump be running non-stop? No, it should not. If it is that means that there is a malfunction. The sump pump will typically function when there is heavy rainfall or during the spring when the soil is thawing.
3. Does the weeping tile need cleaning? It is not possible to clean the weeping tile.
4. What is the life expectancy of a sump pump? Like any other equipment that uses a motor, the better the quality, the longer the life span. Maintenance also plays a big role in the life span of a sump pump.
5. Does the weeping tile need replacement?  The weeping tile is buried 8 to 10 ft underground and over time the pressure of the soil, expansion and contraction and tree roots, may create damage. Unfortunately, there is no way to know when this happens and it will most probably show as a failure of the system and may lead to water penetration in the basement.

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Here are a few questions to ask before adding insulation?

1. How old is my house?
2. Are there any government grants available?
3. Am I planning any renovations soon?
4. What impact will this update have on my home’s efficiency and my energy bills.

The purpose of insulation in any house is to regulate the flow of heat inside a home. In the winter, if a house is properly insulated, it will retain warmth and keep the energy bills low. In the summer, it will allow the house to be cooler.

You have probably heard the term R-Value of insulation before.  Insulation is measured by its R-flow, which is the insulation’s resistance to heat. The higher the R-flow, the better the house is insulated.

The building code in Ontario has changed over the years and houses are now built with higher value, as governments at all levels are trying to keep energy costs and demands low. The current Ontario Code requirement for attic insulation is R-60. Just 30 years ago the requirement was R-32. The reason the attic insulation has changed so much is that heat rises and a lot of heat loss can occur from the attic. The graphic below is based on older standards but it can show you the required depth of insulation for each R-Value. With the current R-60 requirement, the required depth for the insulation types listed below is about 24”.

It is time to add insulation in an older home

If your house was built more than 15 years ago then it’s time to add insulation in your attic. Insulation does not have to be replaced unless it was damaged by pests, animals, or water damage. The costs of adding and replacing insulation are different. I highly recommended bringing your attic insulation to current standards so that you don’t have to worry about it for a long time.

Adding insulation to the exterior walls

Replacing insulation in the walls is not easy and not necessary or feasible in some cases. Current insulation levels for walls require 2 x 6 framing, therefore if your house was built with 2 x 4 framing, updating is not feasible. In addition to this, most heat loss from the walls structure is from the windows, therefore updating windows is what is needed here. If your house is older than 20 years old, I would recommend looking into the replacement of the windows with modern efficient double-glazed windows.

Do I change the basement insulation?

The basement insulation requirements have also changed over time. Current requirements are for R20 insulation at the full height of the basement wall. When finishing or renovating the basement, I highly recommended bringing your basement insulation to current standards. In some cases, you will have to remove the older insulation and install new. I see basement renovations all the time, where the insulation is only 4 ft high (Pre 2000 standards) and the homeowner does not update the insulation to the full height of the wall. This will create condensation issues and sometimes shows on the drywall as damage. I always say if you will do something, do it right and think of the long term.

Spray foam insulation is better for homes!

Spray foam insulation is a relatively new product and is used mostly in custom-built homes and in specific areas of subdivision homes. The reason for this is its high cost. It is good insulation for exterior walls, hard-to-reach areas and garage ceilings. I do not recommend using spray foam insulation in the attic unless it is to insulate heating ducts. Using spray foam in all the attic will make any future changes very difficult. Spray foam insulation is also required to be covered with drywall therefore the costs add up.

FAQ

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